Honolulu, Hawaii

Another day in Hawaii, another morning run. Legs dead, we huffed and puffed our way past tons and tons of partiers and potluckers at Kailua Beach Park and around the Lanikai loop once again. A bit more difficult this time, a fact that only enhanced our feeling of accomplishment.

Shortly after getting back from the run, my old friend Maka and his wife Kii picked us at the B/B. It’s hard to believe that we’ve basically been out of touch since 1999, when my parents moved away from Hawaii. Maybe it’s because on some level I feel like he’s family or that our friendship can endure most things, but I’m mostly the culprit here. Regrettable, and something I hope doesn’t happen again.

Up over the Pali and into Honolulu for the afternoon. After Maka parked his enormous truck (hereafter, The Monster Truck; certainly the biggest four-wheel passenger vehicle I’ve ever ridden in, or seen, for that matter) on the street, we walked to Snorkel Bob’s to see T, an old friend of mine from high school. Great to see him, and to know that he hasn’t changed a bit over the last 16 years.

Next up, Ono’s in Kapahulu, for arguably the city’s best Hawaiian food. Cozy, family run place with pics of Hawaii celebs on the walls and a constant stream of customers, mostly locals. Our list of items consumed included: pork lau lau; lomi lomi salmon; taco poki; squid luau; poi (barely); rice (of course); taro (listed on the menu as sweet potato); kalua pig; and more. Diversity and volume, near unbelievable. Though probably better for the carnivores among us, a true taste of local-style Hawaiian food enjoyed by all. We rolled ourselves out the door and back in to The Monster Truck, with the afternoon to drive our food comas away.

The path took us through Diamond Head, Kahala, and Hawaii Kai, with stops at Sandy Beach and the Blowhole. Great views, old memories, and perfect weather (after a bit of a cloudy start to the day). From there on to Waimanalo Town, past Bellows, Waimanalo Beach Park and into Kailua, where we made a stop with time enough for a quick tour of the Pulis’ house.

Back out on the road, headed who knows where. Rather than head home or to the beach, we decide on the Byodo-in Temple in Kaneohe. The place holds tons of memories for me, as mom used to take me there to walk around when I was a little kid. It remains on the list of must-sees though, as we switch the plan just after driving past the Byodo-in. Instead, we head to the west side of the island.

Over the H-3 freeway, about 25-30 minute drive through Pearl City, Waipahu, Makakilo, Ko’olina, Ewa Beach, and more. Tons and tons of new development here. Good for the economy and the builders in HI, though much of it looks pretty nondescript and McMansiony to me. If I were king, I might have left it undeveloped. This is a part of the island I don’t know all that well, but I’m not so sure I like it all that much. It’s brown and a bit dry where other areas are green and lush; it also feels new (in a cheap kinda way), with lots of chain stores/restaurants, and very cramped residential neighborhoods.

Back in to Honolulu, with no real agenda, but when you’re with Maka and Kii, you eat. And eat well. After a bit of back and forth, we settled on Tsukiji, a “fish market and buffet” in Ala Moana Center. “Buffet” is certainly the understatement of the day, maybe the week or month. Off the top of my head, the spread included: at least 10 different kinds of sushi; ahi poke; king crab legs; several kinds of tempura; kal bi; steak; three or four Italian dishes; a somen/ramen station; 8-10 kinds of cake/brownie; a shave ice station; and on and on. You get the point before even sitting down, as the sign on the host’s stand reads something like, “out of courtesy to other customers, please limit your dining [feeding?] to 1 ½ hours.” Haven’t been to Vegas in a while, but this will rival any of the best buffets there, especially on quality. We ate like pigs, and enjoyed every minute of it. I’d go back in a heartbeat, especially with Maka and Kii.

After dinner, we drove up Tantalus, for a view overlooking the city at night. Took a bunch of pictures, marveling all the while at how beautiful and peaceful the city looks from above. Probably could have spent all night there, telling old stories and catching up. It was a bit cold, though, and there were other things to see/do.

Driving toward the highway entrance, we happened to pass by Punahou. Lucky thing, as the night-blooming cereus on top of the 3-4 foot high stone wall that encloses the campus were in full bloom, a phenomenon that only happens for each bloom one night per year.** Incredible luck. The flowers themselves – gorgeous, ornate, sweet smelling, bright white, about 8 or so inches in length and 5-6 in diameter – were stunning, and the fact that Maka was talking about the plants while we were on Tantalus, having no idea that flowers a few blocks away were in full bloom. Kii quipped that we must have ordered the bloom as part of our honeymoon package. If anyone in Hawaii could have arranged for that to happen, it'd probably be Maka and Kii.

The day ended about 10:30. Tired, but so happy to have gotten that much time with our hosts. Their kindness and generosity (from the extensive driving, tour guiding, and refusal to let us pay for anything) was immense. Though I haven’t seen Maka in way too long, it felt like we hadn’t missed a beat. It also felt like I had known Kii for years; it’s easy to see how her feisty spirit, sense of humor, and wit won Maka over. We can only hope that they know how much we appreciate the day.

** They bloom at night, and die by the next night. Maka reports that the Hawaiian myth is that the flowers represent two star-crossed lovers seeing each other during the bloom.