Kailua, Oahu, HI

On the road shortly thereafter, from H-1 to the Pali. I’m really surprised at how well I remember my way around. I guess the 50,000 or so trips over the Pali were enough to imprint the route on my brain. Even at night, the Pali is gorgeous. I got chills coming through the tunnels and seeing the lights of Kailua for the first time.

It’s so great to be back, and even better to be here with LVL. There’s so much I want to tell her about, to show her, and to experience again with her. Lots of big plans for the week.

First up: Zippy’s, a local plate lunch chain, and a staple of Hawaiian food culture. The food is generally pretty bad, the atmosphere isn’t great either, but the place is open 24/7. I also have a real soft spot for it, as we went there a lot as kids, after late football games, etc. I got one of my usuals, Chili Burrito: Zippy’s famous chili, what is basically a gas station burrito, two scoops of white rice, and a scoop of mac salad. Fifteen or so years later, the chili is still average, the burrito still looks/tastes like folded cardboard, and the mac is still great. LVL reports that the mini mahi plate (1 scoop rice,* 1 scoop mac, 1 piece of breaded and fried fish) was “fine.” That about captures it. Could have done without several packs of mildly rowdy, very loud teens, but the whole experience (esp for a meal at 11:30 at night) was just how I remember it from high school.** Much fun.

*For what may be the first time in the long and fabled history of Zippy’s, someone very special orders brown rice with her plate lunch. The people behind the counter kept it pretty cool, but I’m sure they were talking about it on the way home. I thought it was one of the funniest things I’d ever witnessed.

** LVL did overhear her first “haole” remark of the trip, courtesy of one of the jerk teens, a fact that adds to the authenticity of the experience and high school reference. The first of many such remarks, I’m pretty sure.

Jet lagged, we woke up pretty early, thanks to a cacophony of birds/geckos/dogs. Exhausted, but excited for a chill day in Kailua. Started with a little poolside chit-chat with our new neighbor,* and the woman who runs the B/B. From there to for some coffee and a hummus bagel with veggies. Great to sit outside and chill.

Next on to HIC (Hawaiian Island Creations), a surf shop that’s been around for as long as I can remember, for a pair of board shorts. I can’t believe I left my only pair** in the car in LA. Annoying. In the process of all this driving around/errand running, we were able to take in Kailua pretty thoroughly. I’m amazed at how much has remained exactly how I remember it. That places like Weller’s Hobbycraft, Hungry Ear Records, and Times Supermarket are still around is amazing and heartening. The pace of life – and capitalism – moves slower out here. It's a lot of fun to see the fields where I played soccer and baseball, the old basketball courts, and the streets I biked and ran as a kid.

The most nostalgic moment of the trip: a visit to Kailulu Way to see my old house. The neighborhood looks as good as ever, and the house is still standing. For some strange reason, my stomach turned a bit as we got close. Maybe I just wanted it to be exactly how I remember it. It was. Painted a different color, a basketball hoop added, and some new plants/etc., but still very much the same place. I miss it, and hope the people living there are taking full advantage. We had a great place to be kids.

About an hour or so later, we drove to the Bluestone condos/Mid Pac Country club and parked on the side of the road, ready for the twenty or so minute hike to the Pillboxes. A pretty steep, but very short hike up a dry, brown ridge to three enclosed cement outposts, used as look-out points during World War II. The views of Lanikai beach, the Mokulua Islands, Flat Island, Enchanted Lakes, Waimanalo, Kaneohe Bay, were spectacular.

Seeing the bright blue/green color of the ocean, and the kayakers/swimmers/parasailors enjoying the water out there, was all the motivation we needed for the fast climb down and the quick drive over to Kailua Beach Park. Parked, quickly set up camp under a tree, and ran to the water. Cool at first, and completely refreshing. The smell of the ocean air, the taste of salt water, and all the memories associated with afternoons at Kailua Beach. I remember vividly my mom taking me to HIC to get a boogie board (and tons of stickers for the bottom) and to Kailua Beach to ride it. As it turns out, this trip is going to be fairly emotional for me.

Fun to be around all the families, tourists, locals. We spent the better part of the afternoon there sunning, swimming, and Scrabbling. About 4 or so, we took a quick walk to Island Snow, another favorite spot, and the best shave ice around. For me: Lilikoi, Vanilla, Strawberry, with ice cream, azuki beans on the bottom, and a snow cap on top; for LVL, a “Java Lava” (coffee, coconut, and vanilla) with ice cream on the bottom. Sugary goodness, and fun to eat it while sitting on a stone planter, right in front of the shop, just like it ever was.

A quick dip in pool and a change of clothes before heading to have Korean BBQ at the Willow Tree in Aikahi shopping center. Bi Bim Bop for LVL; Shoyu chicken for me. Funny waiter (“eggs are gooooood.”) and great, friendly service. After dinner, a quick run through the Safeway for some essential supplies: coffee, cereal,** milk, rubber slippers, and beer. We got groceries at this store throughout my entire childhood, and though some things have changed, I think I still recognized some of the cashiers.

Home about 7:30, both wiped out from the sun and everything else. It will be a very early night, indeed.

* The Hula Breeze B&B has two “rooms,” the Palm Suite (see http://www.vrbo.com/235628), where we are, and the Pineapple Suite (see http://www.vrbo.com/242098), where our solo-traveling military wife neighbor is staying.

** [Ed. note: Given that the Toes on the Nose trunks Josh left behind were very likely purchased at HIC circa 1995, I think buying a second pair at this point is totally justified. Perhaps even celebrated.]

*** Food prices are outrageous: $7.69 for a box of Frosted Flakes [Ed. note: Tasty as FF might be, we have not yet completely abandoned nutrition; we opted for granola.]; $5.29 for a gallon of whole milk. Woah.

When jet-lagged and sun-drained, early to bed does not necessarily mean early to rise. We did wake up with a bit of energy, as late as it was, and took a run around the Lanikai loop. Despite feeling tired, out of shape, and near death toward the end, it was a great run. The beautiful homes that line the loop, the ridge (with Pillboxes) in the background, and the incredible view of Kailua beach. After a short recovery and a few gulps of water from a barely-operational water fountain, I went for a short swim in the ocean to cool off. In retrospect, it is a little hard to believe that I grew up here, and that along the way I became accustomed to this kind of activity/scenery.

Next up, brunch/lunch at Cinnamon’s, a Kailua staple, celebrating its 25th anniversary this year. When hearing that we were going there, I received the following reactions via text:

Mom: “Can’t believe Cinnamon’s is still there!”
Zoey: “Wow. Cinnamon’s is still there?”
Dad: “I remember Cinnamon’s…”

Pretty funny. Cinnamon’s is still around because the food is really good. I wolfed down mahi mahi eggs benedict, while LVL enjoyed crab cake eggs benedict. Pretty decadent. On top of a great lunch, it was so much fun to walk around the building and see Dr. Hammer’s office,* what used to be Innervision,** etc. More déjà vu.

* Torture chamber of orthodontia, and the place I spent many an afternoon between the ages of 7 and 14.

** The hair salon where my mom got hers cut and styled, also a place I spent many a childhood morning and afternoon. Still a hair salon, but no longer under the same name. Wonder what Rick and Thom are doing now.