San Martin de los Andes, Argentina:
Dec
14
Sun
2008
to
Dec
19
Fri
2008


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Thursday, Dec 18, 2008
Lago Espejo Chico
Friday, Dec 19, 2008
Bike Ride to Parque Nacional del los Arrayanes
Sunday, Dec 14, 2008
Tio Pacos
Monday, Dec 15, 2008
Rented a Car
Tuesday, Dec 16, 2008
Hiked to Secret Waterfall
The Campfire!
Wednesday, Dec 17, 2008
Drove to Lago Curruhue Grande
Sunday, Dec 14, 2008
Bus from Pucon
Volcano Lanin in the distance.
I still can't believe I took my shirt off to pose like this for Kip.
Our amazingly beautiful campsite. We had the entire place to ourselves.
Francico took us on a 45 minute hike to this secret waterfall.
Apparently at a certain time of year, this "fruit" falls from the money puzzle trees and can be eaten.
Francico.
The view 50 feet from our tent.
Bus: Villirrica -> San Martin de los Andes
Dec 14

The five hour bus trip across the Chilean border into the ski-chalet-ish vacation town of San Martin de los Andes was epically beautiful. After passing through Pucon, it wound up into the dense, jungly forest between and around several volcanoes (Villirrica and Lanin).

We stopped for a bathroom break at a tiny little resort along the river, and to our delight, their front porch was littered with puppies! Who doesn't like a good puppy break after a bumpy bus ride?

Crossing the border was uneventful except for: a patch of monkey puzzle trees, beautiful views of Volcan Lanin while we waited, and the mean and dangerous looking patrol dog who seemed to be moments from breaking free and mauling someone. He got the chance to search the bus, but was unable to sniff out any illegal substances - so off we went!

We skirted around Parque Nacional Lanin (which we would later return to in a rental car) and arrived in San Martin - which as I mentioned was far swankier than I imagined. It's definitely set up as a ski resort town for locals (and tourists). Not a ton to do in town, but it is bordered by mountains, a huge lake, and it's a nice place to walk around.

Francico's First Americans
Dec 15

Kip and I ended up being the only ones at a beautiful campground designed for 40 or more. Sixty foot trees towered overhead as the late sunlight poked through the the rolling grass meadow below. Despite the wind, we set up our tent as close as we could to the lake, with stunning views of the snow capped peak on the other side.

Eventually an old Mapuchi man wandered over to chat with us (in Spanish). He turned out the be the caretaker of the campground, and incredibly we were the first American's he had ever met! Grateful for what America has done for Argentina (Kip and I weren't quite sure what he meant), he was very excited and honored to meet us.

He ended up taking us to a secret waterfall, hacking his machete the whole way - then posing with it when we reached the falls. Without a doubt, this was the most special and authentic part of the entire trip. Thank god for my spanish skills!

The Running of the Bulls
Dec 16

We watched Francico rig up his bulls to drag a tree trunk (20 feet long and 5 feet thick) all the way across the campground. The reason? Some guys had arrived with a saw and were planking some tree trunks for him.

Really crazy to see how much of the world lives. We seemed surprised at how he was moving the tree trunk, so Francico asked: "Why? What do you use?".

Our response? "Machines"

Giving Us a Bad Name
Dec 17

Although in the grand scheme of the world, this was an incredibly beautiful lake, it did not compare to Huechulafquen. It's almost as though we wish we had done the circuit in the opposite direction.

The campground was decent enough, but there were a few other people there, and we were all crammed next to each other. Yes, we heard americans singing some ridiculous camp songs. Adults. Songs Kip and I wouldn't be caught dead singing. Plus, they had little regard for the other campers there.

Don't you hate it when other travelers from your country give people the wrong idea about your country?

The Timber Bandits Strike Again
Dec 17

Kip and I thought we'd go back to our roots and steal some wood for a campfire. Just as the sun was setting, we set out in our car and drove to the campground just down the road (which was empty except for a stationed campground host).

We snuck around the side, keeping low, as we made our way to a stash we had spotted earlier. The two armfuls of blocky, precut lumber made it back to our car - and we peeled out to enjoy the fruit of our labors.

And of course - we filmed the whole thing.

Grinning proudly, we tossed the wood onto our campfire only to discover that it was the worst wood ever. It'd flame for 30 seconds, then smoke for 5 minutes before finally burning itself out.

Serves us right I suppose?

Best. Rainbow. Ever.
Dec 19

It drizzled much of the return bike trip from Parque Nacional del los Arrayanes. Just as we reached the only good clearing of the entire 8 mile ride, the rain let up and we were treated to the most incredible rainbow I've ever seen.

End to end. Blazing colors. Fantastic scenery. Possibly my favorite photo of the entire trip!

Tips
Rent a Car
It's by far the best way to experience the surrounding Lakes District
Avoid the Crowds at Arrayanes
Boatloads of people will get off at the forest, walk through quickly, and then hang out by the coffee shop. Just wait 5 minutes and they'll pass - you'll have the place to yourself (for a bit)
Bring Supplies
Although it looks like there are services around Lago Huechulafquen - they are basically non-existent beyond a bizarre little convenience store with hardly anything in it.
Don't have a car that is low to the ground
You'll still be able to make the drive, but it'll be slow going, and you'll be constantly worried about hitting stuff.
Seek the Bamboo Forest
About 1/2 mile down the road from the campground at the west edge of Lago Curruhue is a bridge crossing over a spectacularly tropical looking river. On the other side of the bridge and up to the right is a secret bamboo forest worth wandering around in.
Lodging

Puma Hostelling International

Pretty nice, but didn't blow my mind. The rooms were small and without character. Decent common area, but the place really cleared out during the day.

Camped on Lago Huechulafquen

SO beautiful. Hardly anyone around even though it should be "busy" season. Maybe going midweek makes a big difference?

Camped at Lago Espejo Chico

Camped right next to a beautiful shimmering river featuring every shade of blue you can imagine. Only 3 other people camped (though out of sight) at a place that holds 200+
Activities

Lago Espejo Chico

Very cool...such a varied setting in such a small area. It's a little secluded camping area with a shimmering, turquoise river, bamboo forest, jungle hikes, fields of wildflowers...

Bike Ride to Parque Nacional del los Arrayanes

Rode out to the end of the peninsula to view the crazy Arrayanes trees. I've never seen anything like them!

Rented a Car

Drove out to Parque Nacional Lanin.

Hiked to Secret Waterfall

Befriend Francico and he will take you there!

Drove to Lago Curruhue Grande

Awesome lake, but not as scenic as Huechulafquen. Drive was beautiful, but a bit tedious because of the low clearance of our rental car.
Thoughts
This place was talked up to me as having the best burgers ever. Sadly, they were sold out. :-(
This place is like some kind of little european ski village. Who knew?
I thought for sure that Kip would fail in his attempt to karate chop through two bamboo sticks at once. Surprisingly, I was wrong. (Though he was rubbing his hand for a while afterwards)
Restaurants and Food

Tio Pacos

Very average (if such a thing is possible). Rather overpriced but we didn't have a choice - not much open on a Sunday afternoon

The Campfire!

We rigged up a tin can to boil water for pasta. Kip made a spam sandwich, which looked absolutely revolting.
Transportation

Bus from Pucon

4-5 hour ride across the border from Pucon, Chile into San Martin de los Andes, Argentina. No sweat - though the dog at the border crossing was scary.
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San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina

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