Moremi Wildlife Reserve, Botswana:
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Critically endangered African wild dogs at Little Vumbura camp (Okavango Delta, Botswana)
Dawn at Little Vumbura
Flying over the Okavango Delta
The airstrip at Little Vumbura
Ahhhh, life is good at the top of the food chain
Wildebeest
Yummm, impala.
This guys scored by nabbing the impala head.
The rare and endangered sable antelope
Cape buffalo herd at Little Mombo
The only wild dog around Mombo these days. The rest of her pack disappeared without her more than a year ago. We call her Daisy. She's beautiful.
Baobab tree
Our outdoor shower at Little Mombo. There was an indoor one too, but it wasn't as much fun.
Our tent at Little Mombo Camp
A very pregnant hyena
A white rhino right when I realized he was about to charge
...and in mid-charge
One of Mombo's "Western boys" stuffed from the girafe kill
A very dead giraffe
Cubs with an impala kill
Hyena with a cape buffalo head
Daisy
Daisy with her adopted jackal packmates
One of the "Western Boys" at Little Mombo
Lodging

Little Vumbura

This is one of Wildnerness Safaris "classic" camps, a notch down from their 'premiere' camps. We stayed here prior to going to Little Mombo, which is a premiere camp, and we also saw the rooms at Vumbura Plains (a premiere camp) while following a wild dog pack and their impala kill! so we were able to get a good sense of the difference. The setting of Little Vumbura is lovely, surrounded by waterways. You drive most of the way to the camp before taking a boat the rest of the way. We were greeted by singing staff, which is an enormously pleasant way to arrive at a property. In fact, the staff here are really one of the gems of Little Vumbura. Nearly all from Botswana, they have amazing voices and one night treated us to a spectacular concert before dinner. The food and drink here were fine, especially given the remote location, but a signficant step down from the food at Mombo. Still, you definitely won't go hungry. One night we had a candlelit dinner in the bush together with about 100 people from other camps, and had excellent bbq meats and a fantastic local singing group. Our room was small, but quite comfortable. unfortunately our first night there was a windstorm, and the heavy flaps of all the tents in the camp made a horrible racket keeping all of us up for hours. We complained the next day, but no one really seemed to know what to do about it. Our guide was a wonderful, sweet, incredibly smart and knowledgeable guy named Sam. Our typical day would start with wakeup at 430am, breakfast at 5, and departure at 530am, just as the sun was rising. It's a beautiful time of day listening to the birds over the marsh and sometimes the distant roar of lions. Our drives were sometimes slow at Vumbura, with no 'big' game, particularly in relation to Mombo, but we always enjoyed them immensely. Sam was an incredibly knowledgeable birder, and we could, and often did, spend hours just identifying and learning about birds! But we also saw some incredible things including the highlight...a large pack of wild dogs kill an impala. This chase took us into the Vumbura Plains property which was closed for some renovation. These rooms were much larger than ours, with their own plunge pools and extensive decking. It looked like a nice property, but not as intimate and friendly as Little Vumbura. We did not participate in the mokoro or boat rides, instead choosing to go on safari each time. I'm not sorry because everyone who came back described those as 'relaxing', which we kind of read to mean 'boring'! We were very happy on the drives and even when we didn't see the so-called big things, we had a great time. The elephant action here was very, very good, better even than at Mombo. We saw large herds every drive, and the elephants are good fun, mock charging and trumpeting and interacting. I can't say that I would go back here, mainly because the overall game viewing at Mombo was soooo much better, but it is a special place and you certainly won't be sorry you went!

Little Mombo

Yes, every single one of the superlatives used by all the other reviewers are valid. Mombo Camp is quite possibly the best place in the world. Luckily, I followed the advice I had read while booking the trip and saved Mombo for last, because while I loved all the other places we stayed (Lion Sands Ivory, Thonga Beach Lodge, Little Vumbura), they all pale in comparison to Mombo. We stayed at Little Mombo, which is attached by a raised boardwalk to Mombo but has its own staff and dining area. I far preferred it to the atmosphere at Mombo camp, which was nice, but too many people for my taste. The rooms are the same at both camps. And beautiful rooms they are! Permanent tents, but with a separate sitting area, big outdoor deck overlooking the bush, indoor and outdoor showers, huge comfy bed. We were actually the only people at Little Mombo for our three night stay, so we had private dinners set up on our deck of our room each night, were the only people on the game drives, and it felt like we had a whole safari lodge and staff to ourselves...because we did! Nat, the GM of Little Mombo was superb. No request was too much trouble. We found ourselves without enough memory on our camera memory cards, so they downloaded all our pics and videos onto DVDs so we could reuse the ones we had. They had talked to the camp (Little Vumbura) we had flown in from and found out what we liked to drink and stocked our in-room cooler accordingly. The food was amazing, worldclass caliber. Surprise lunch in the bush overlooking a hippo pond, a surprise cocktail party on our last night around the pool, everything was just perfect and lovely. But the game...! Just on our drive from the airstrip we saw more game than we had in our previous six days and nights of safari drives. We arrived shortly after some horrific events had happened at camp. A territorial lion war had raged through the camp, causing a lockdown the previous day and resulting in two male lions breaking the back of a lioness right in camp. The remains of a cape buffalo kill were still right outside our room. The lions we saw (and they were magnificent!) had new wounds and battle scars. We saw a giraffe kill after the takedown, and some of the rare white rhino who had been reintroduced into the region. A great talk was held at Mombo one night by the guy in charge of the rhino reintroduction program. The schedule is typical of most safari camps, up at 5am, breakfast at 530am, leave at 6am, back around 10am depending on how things are, then back out at 430pm, although no night drives are allowed, so you're in on the afternoon drive by about 7pm. We saw huge herds of cape buffalo, zebra, elephant, plenty of babies. One drive we saw the Big Five in about two hours. Our driver Tsile was the kindest, most knowledgeable, funniest guide in a trip full of remarkable guides. And a great driver, which we needed! It is indeed, the bush! Our favorite was the lone remaining wild dog, who we affectionately call Daisy. We think of her often and hope she's doing well! I can't rave enough about the place and can't wait to go back. The smell of the wild sage, the glorious baobab trees, the huge hippo munching outside our tent, the stunning sunsets and sunrises. I dream of Mombo.
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