Haapsalu, Estonia

Bless you.

No, that was not a sneeze, that was the name of the town I stayed at the second night of my bike trip.

I had a very good second day of biking, due mostly to a tailwind and what I think was a slight downhill. Let's just say that the second day's good times were NOT due to the rain that started up about 20 k into my ride (and would only let up once I finished my ride on Saturday).

But anyway, I rolled into Haapsaluu, got a place to stay, and despite the rain, decided to wander around town. The small coastal towns of Estonia have an almost New Englandy feel to them - quaint little main street and city center, friendly people, nice houses.

The houses. I caught myself stopping every few feet to photograph them. Why? It was the first time in almost 11 months that I'd been in a town where there were no apartment buildings. Can it be, I thought, that everyone in this town actually lives in their own individual house?

And then I laughed. Because, for those of you who have been to Russia, the Russians ask Americans this all the time. Do you all really live in your own homes, and not just in massive ugly Soviet-bloc apartment bulildings? We laugh and take it for granted, and say yes. But I found myself on the coast of Estonia asking the same question.

I've been in Russia for too long. I needed a bike trip more than anything.